Six by Nico: New York

If you live in Glasgow and haven’t made the trip to Six by Nico yet, you’ve been severely missing out. Every six weeks, the chef and his team create an entirely new menu, based on a specific concept. So far, we’ve had The Chippie, Childhood, Disney, The Picnic, and a few more, each with their own twist on a classic theme.

I’d already been to Picnic, and while I wasn’t blown away (perhaps caused by the huge burger I’d had at lunch ruining my appetite), I did like it enough to be pretty excited about going again. Especially when it was a New York inspired six-course tasting menu at just £25! So last week with a Big Apple-loving boyfriend in tow, I headed down to Finnieston to see what Nico had in store for us.

 

We arrived at Six by Nico and after a quick check on ResDiary by the waitress (I hear it’s a pretty good booking system), we were seated at our table. This was the least New York experience ever, no one yelled “hey I’m walking here”, no one stood on me, and no one pushed me. 10/10 for experience, 0/10 for New York authenticity. We were seated at a cosy corner table, all plush cushions and candles, and offered some snacks and cocktails to get us started.

Although we declined on the cocktails and went for some wine, the snacks were greatly appreciated. Sourdough bread with paprika butter was a treat, but it was the pulled pork slider that really put a smile on our faces. Tender meat, soft brioche, and the most perfect spicy sauce. Delicious.

Then came our first course; a sesame bagel with salmon, cream cheese, and a pickle gel. It was a tiny little mouthful but the salmon and the pickle gel mixed perfectly, and the sesame bagel lent a little crunch to the dish.

Pickles were the taste of the day for Six by Nico’s first couple of courses; plate two was buffalo chicken, with Gorgonzola mousse, and pickled celery. This dish turned all my preconceptions about buffalo chicken on their head. It was in fact a confit chicken thigh, crispy on top and soft underneath, with buffalo sauce alongside the Gorgonzola and celery. It was genuinely delicious and was probably my second favourite dish of the night. (Read on til the end….)

six by nico

A brief wait and it was time for breakfast. Not fluffy Big Apple pancakes with a cup of joe, but eggs Benedict. Eggs Benedict for dinner you ask? Well, Nico’s take on the old favourite. A slow cooked scotch egg with ham hough, and a tasty hollandaise. It felt weirdly refined, like when someone deconstructs fish and chips; comforting and yet posh at the same time. Like eating caviar in your jammies……

The next course was named Codfather and, unlike the chip van of the same name that trundles around my home-town, there wasn’t a piece of overcooked batter in sight. Instead it was a beautifully cooked piece of cod on fregola pasta (like tiny balls of pasta for anyone who didn’t know, like me), with trapanese pesto and samphire. My boyfriend kept making creepy “mmmmmmm” noises throughout it, and I devoured the whole lot, so we can safely say it was pretty tasty.

Second to last came a Reuben sandwich, although I’m not sure where the sandwich bit came in. Slow cooked brisket was topped with caramelised onion, and the most tasty, smoky, meaty bon bon. It was probably my least favourite plate, but only in that it was the least best of a really great line up. And I was getting full and had spotted the desert being served to the table next to us.

six by nico

And then it was the last course. The Big Apple. The pièce de résistance of the whole thing. What looked like a big red apple, sat on a nutty, carameley crumb, with a mint leaf on top. It was so gorgeous, I almost didn’t want to stick my spoon in it. When I did though, it was filled with a light creamy cheesecake, with a centre of green apple puree. Wow. The mint cut through the flavours, and it was both sweet and tangy all at once. I can genuinely say we were really upset when it was over.

Paying up, I asked our lovely waitress how they had made the cheesecake. Turns out they dipped the balls of cheesecake in the red jelly and hung it for hours to set. She mentioned that it took forever to make, but it was definitely worth it.

What’s the damage? 

I was so full of food and wine by the end that I’ve forgotten how much our bill was. However, for six courses, snacks, a couple of wines, and a couple of softs it was under £70 for both of us. Which is really pretty decent.

Start spreading the news, Nico’s a genius.

So genius in fact that he’s opening another restaurant in Edinburgh. Keep an eye out for updates!

Want to try it out?

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